Nguna Island

Well I’ve just gotten back from Nguna Island and what an experience! I can barely begin to describe to you how incredibly awesome yet confronting the whole experience was! Let me just start by saying ‘thank the Lord for plumbing!’ I’ve just gotten out of the shower and it is so good to be able to strip off without worrying about a passer-by seeing through the holes in the walls of the bathroom, or a pig or chicken strolling in on you. Mum, you can’t know how much I crave your baked cheesecake drizzled in chocolate. Mmmmm…
But let me start from the top. We were taken to our boat in the back of an open truck by a man named Moses. It was such an amazing experience being jostled around like cattle, especially when we stood up to save our rear ends. It was better than a roller coaster! I’ll see if my video will upload and you can see for yourself.
We took a speed boat to Nguna Island, and I actually enjoyed the ride. I looked forward to the choppy waves and felt completely safe (for those of you who don’t know, I had a horrible fear of small boats when I was younger). While we were travelling the caught a fish, and it was a decent size too.
The actual island itself is completely different to anything I’ve ever known. Not only the forest everywhere but the people and the houses. They live in tine sheds, but they’re all so happy. There are roosters crowing every morning at 4am (or earlier), kittens, puppies, goats, hens, chicks, a couple of cows and pigs that are free to wander into your house. The first morning I woke up to a pig squealing outside my door – well, if you can call a sarong a door.
They all love playing soccer and volley ball, singing and dancing. I’ve even joined in and taught them the chicken dance, the macarana and the Mexican wave. They loved it so much. Still, my dancing and soccer skills are nothing to brag about. They all love to laugh and I’ve been laughed at so many times (not maliciously though).
I had my first bucket shower, which wasn’t too bad but my hair stank really bad until that morning and I really need a sponge. They consider a swim in the sea a shower as well so for most of the time I was covered in salt. And then there’s the toilet… don’t get me started! The smell is almost unbearable. Imagine, if you can, a dozen public toilets in Smithfield without any disinfectant, all combined. I can barely breathe! But I’m getting used to it, just like I’m getting used to the hard slat beds and mozzie nets.
My host family is really nice and generous, but they seem poor compared to some of the other host families. They only just moved out of a one room shed. My ‘Dad’s’ name is Henry, my ‘mum’s’ name is Kalmone, my ‘sister’s’ name is Gladis and my ‘nephew’s’ name is Noah. I’ve been told that I’m no longer a tourist because I have family in Vanuatu.
Henry’s been teaching us Bislama. It’s easy enough to understand just by listening to it, especially when you pick up key words, it’s just really hard to reply in their language. I’m studying hard though! Henry expects me to teach Grandpa how to speak Vanuatu Pidgin when I come home, so I’d better knuckle down.
Dorothea; Tangkiu tumas from we yu givhan long mi. That goes for everyone else too! Let me show you what else I can say:
“Mi volantia blong GAP kam long Ostrelia. Mi mas toktok Bislama, but mi no haremsave evri samting. Mi hapi tumas long Nguna Island long Vanuatu mo mi laekem local kakae. Henry I tijim mi Bislama, mo mi tijim Inglis. Mi mas go stadi noa, mbae mi toktok gud Bislama. I gud sapos yu lan.”
I said “I’m a GAP volunteer from Australia. I have to speak Bislama but I don’t understand everything. I’m happy on Nguna Island in Vanuatu and I like the local food. Henry is teaching my Bislama and I teach English. I have to study so that in the future I can speak Bislama well. It’s good to learn.”
While on Nguna I’ve experienced some pretty cool things. When we got here they performed a traditional welcome dance and put flowers around our necks. I must admit that I was a little scared when the lead dancers yelled and ran towards us, but I’m laughing about it now.
It was also ‘Children’s Day’ when we arrived so there were speeches and abig communal dinner. Every day we were given fresh flowers for the dining table and plenty of delicious fruit. I’ve tried coconuts, paw paw, sugar cane, Guava, nangai nuts, mandarins, oranges, all types of banana and more! I love their root vegetables, even sweet potato and pumpking taste nice here.
My host family not only taught me how to speak Bislama, but they’ve taught me how to wash my clothes and how to cook. We wash our clothes on a board with soap and a scrubbing brush, and there’s a specific pattern to the scrubbing and the rinsing.
We’ve seen lap lap and bread made and it’s all so different. They cook using warmed stones and fire. One of my favourite foods so far is yam thrown onto the fire, peeled and eaten warm. We’ve also tried to make our own lap lap. Ali and I peeled yam, cut it, grated it and fried it. It was so nice! Just like a hash brown. We also fried banana and ‘man-ee-ok’, don’t ask me how to spell it.
My host family and other children have taught me some clapping games and we all sang together. They were happy to hear what snippets of Western Christian songs I could remember but if you’re sending a box over could you put a Christian song book in? It’s such a lovely way of bonding and kilim taem. :0) Tell Karen that they loved her collection song from SMYG. I’d also really love it if you could send some more aussie souvenirs over. Pencils and stickers go down really well. (Don’t worry about big stuff).
Some of the local children took us through the bush and up a hill (more like a mountain!) to see the fantastic views. Despite the cuts and scratches everyone received it was fantastic! The children can whistle so well and make amazing bird call noises. The views are indescribable. I’ll see if I can upload some photos for you this time.
The children also took us to the beach to go snorkelling. And, yes, I did my best, but I only got part way out and Jo and Ali had to be with me the whole time. I saw giant red starfish and electric blue fish but I was too tense and scared to truly enjoy it. Plus, my snorkel was leaking, which didn’t help. Ali said she was proud of how well I did but I felt retarded. What a stupid fear! :0( A phobia of fish! I should be in a weird and whacky show!
We also went to an extinct volcano. It was such a hard climb, up all the way (sometimes nearly vertical, especially at the peak) through dense scrub. I came back black and covered with cuts and scratches. But that’s all part of the fun and adventure.
The view was so amazing and coming over the crest of the volcano all I could was gasp at the beauty. Sarah, I’m so glad I have the blog to let you know how exciting everything is and I can’t wait to get back and talk the socks off you!
The goodbye ceremony last night was so touching, with speeches about always having a home in Vanuatu and a feast prepared by everyone in the village. We also all received gifts from our host families. My family gave me a mother hubbard dress (like a mumu), a mat, a broom and a woven bag. They must have spent so much time making them all and I felt so special and privileged to know them. I’m so glad I’ve been given this opportunity to meet such selfless servants of God. :0)
The Mother Hubbard dress is quite a fashion statement. The one they’d originally made was too short, so they brought out a bigger one and I swim in it! If only I’d had it at the airport last Friday I could have fit you all in and taken you with me!
What else… we saw a sunrise, but it wasn’t that spectacular yet (later on in the year). We see lots and lots of bats every morning, which is fantastic, and some of the villagers had pet fruit bats which Hugh and I got to feed. There was the cutest puppy called Whitey who followed us everywhere and we almost adopted. Ah! I took out my braids and I had a major frizz factor! You could spot me in a crowd a mile away, it was so funny but soooo painful! I think that with hair like that I could rival Luke and Alley any day!
Well, I know I’ve forgotten a tonne of stuff but this should keep you amused for quite a while. We go to our islands on Monday so we have a few more days in Vila to enjoy the plumbing. You don’t know how much I miss all of you! Hugs and kisses to all of you, and I pray and think of you every day! I’m sending post cards today (sorry they’re late but the post here is really slack). Love you all to death, and I’ll write as often as I can! Hope to bore the socks off you again soon,

Jess :0) xox

PS. Just met Amanda and Sue (GAP contacts). Bec and I now have to leave for Paama on Saturday, so we don't have anywhere near as much time as we thought. Still, we'll survive. I've also found out that I won't have to carry my luggage (phew!), still it's not all good news. Paama is notorious for its rat problem, fun fun! So we're going to stock up on ratsac and hopefully all will go well. If not I'll bring you all back a rat pillow for a souvenir. Lopevi volcano is errupting (still) but its only little belches into the sea, nothing to be worried about, just a spectacular view!
School lessons start at 7.30am in the morning and finish at 3.30pm, roughly. Still a little unsure about that. Phone numbers you can ring to contact me at the school are 48616 or 48538. So ring me after Saturday! Please please please! :0)
If I'm ever in any trouble and you can't contact me at the school than you can ring Amanda or Charlie on anyone of these numbers: 23162/22524, 27318 or 27278. If you can't contact them then try Sue on 22584 or 23508, and you can always ring the GAP office at home.
My money's going all right. I still have about 10,000 vatu in cash, AU$300 travellers checks and AU$1200 in my account, and I've paid for my internal flights and everything, so that's going well. If you can, send some flat soccer balls or volley balls (but don't go crazy, I'm fine so far as I know with what I have).
One last thing I've found out is that the school is in its own community seperate from Liro, so hopefully living conditions will be a bit better.
A couple of last things: I forgot to burn those dancing DVDs for Girls Brigade, but it should all be on Big Bad Max. Also, don't forget to nag Big W about that box of goodies they promised me. Well! That's it for the post script, enjoy the photos (if they upload) and I love you all to bits! Ring me! All of you!!! :0)


Us climbing the mountain to see the volcano (so steep!)


A BP Alley!!! Now you can come live with me! :0)


Mmmmm! Me lovem to drinkem from da coconut!!! :0)


A falling coconuts sign! How exotic :0)


I tried my hand at cooking lap lap with yam, and it actually worked quite well


We're in Vanuatu, we had to order coctails! And boy did they taste good!


My host family on Nguna Island


While we were on the boat to Nguna our 'driver' caught a fish


What have you got to say to that Luke? Braided hair is such the best way to scare little children... and Mel


Okay! The group photo worked this time! From left to right: Hugh, me, Bec, Emma, Nat, Bec, Jo, Ali, Rosie and Dannie was taking the photo


How classic! I'm thinking about buying a hammock and then I can send you lots more touristy photos! :0)


This is the house I was staying in on Nguna, classy huh? Just be glad I didn't take a photo of the toilet to show you. You'd all be having nightmares :0)


The kids from Nguna took us to see the great views


It's not a very good picture, but it's the best I could get of the sunrise. Just wanted to show you.


This is the view from the top of the volcano. It's an extinct volcano so its sunken in, it was so amazing!!! I like my exclamation marks :0)


Doesn't this photo just make you wish you were here? It's been pretty awesome service... most of the time.

Sorry! The movie of us in the truck didn't work, but it was really awesome! Picture a small cattle truck, now picture 10 of us in the back with nothing but a slat of wood to sit on and the metal bars to hang on to. It was so much fun! Can't wait to get back and show you the movies!

So Home Sick

Hi everyone! I can’t believe how easy it is to get onto the internet in Vila, if things are like this in Paama (highly unlikely) you’re likely to get updates every time I feel home sick. Still, at the moment that’s practically all the time! :0(
It sure has been a culture shock. I’ve been studying my Bislama and I’m so bad at learning languages! Still, there’s only 4000 words in the vocab so how hard could it be?
It’s Sunday at the moment and I woke up at 6.30AM so got to hear the church bells ringing at 7am. They rang again at 10am and 2pm, I’m just waiting to hear them again. :0)
Oh, by the way. Lopevi volcano (the one practically on top of Paama) is erupting. :0) Great news, huh? Still, if it were anything big I’m sure Charlie (the GAP contact) would have contacted us. So far we’ve only heard about the eruption from a local newspaper. I’ll let you know more details as I know them (great communication here, not!)
I don’t have Tom East’s address, or a few of my school friend’s. I also forgot Nanny and Pa and Grandma and Grandpa’s addresses, so they would be handy too. And Mum, I didn’t give you the cash passport details but I’ll email them to you when I’ve unpacked.
We went to Erakor Island today, but apart from that and the markets I haven’t done anything too touristy. It’s been really hard, I want to go out and explore everywhere, go on glass bottom boats, visit the rain forests and stuff but everyone else seems happy to bum. I’m sure we’ll have plenty of time later but at the moment it’s so frustrating!!!
Everyone got up at like 10am and I’d been up since 6.30, they also all really like to drink… I mean, I don’t mind alcohol but I don’t like getting drunk as a way of socialising. Anyway, that’s my little spew out of the way. I’ve been a little bit of a hermit, so I should probably make this quick and go spend some more time with them…
Anyway, there’s some more piccies here. I found a BP Alley! Now you can come and live here! :-P I’ve also attached a group photo of everyone, and I’ll see if I can remember all of their names from left to right: Hugh, me, Bec, Emma, Nat, Bec, Jo, Ali, Rosie and a girl whose name I can’t remember is taking the photo… her name starts with A??? How bad is that! I’d better put more effort into socialising.
Anyway, I’m really homesick, I’m really tired, everything is new and scary, I smell like the sea and I want nothing more than a familiar face right now, or at least something to do. I know it sounds like I’m having a terrible time but really it’s not too bad, the bad stuff is just so incredibly overwhelming!
Well, it’s off to Ngua tomorrow so I’ll see what happens with contacting you. I’m really keen to ring home soon Mum, and so I’ll probably give you the number at Paama as soon as I get there. Can’t describe how much I miss you all! Especially you Sarah, you have to come visit at the end of these months so we can do some real tourist stuff!!! Love you all to death!!!
Jess

PS. The other girl’s name is Dannie
PPS. Sorry, photos aren't working, I'll try again later :0(

Where Am I Again?

Well… I’m here, and I still can’t believe that I’m sitting on a bed in the Wild Pig Hotel in Port Vila in Vanuatu in the South Pacific, miles away from home enjoying a warm, if muggy, night with a group of people who, until this morning, were strangers.
What’s happened? Well, on Thursday night Alley, Luke, Sophia, Elycia and Kylie slept over… well, no one really slept, and then they accompanied me to the airport. It was all so surreal, but as I was walking away from my friends and family I couldn’t help but ask myself ‘what the hell am I doing???’ It was the hardest thing I’ve ever done in my entire life, and I felt so alone and insignificant. It was confusing and very, very daunting.
At the moment it still feels a little like a dream, but I have an excitement throbbing inside me only dulled by lack of sleep. My plane trips were really uneventful, I was asleep the whole time, but when my plane came into land and I saw all those palm trees, green hills and islands I felt like I’d been slapped in the face. It suddenly hit and I couldn’t believe where I was.
Bec, Ali, Emma, Hugh and I were greeted by singing locals and Charlie, who took us to our hotel and then left us ourselves. It was weird, we were completely free and responsible for ourselves. So we went out to Port Vila, which startled me as a really rural city. We strolled through markets jammed with sweet smelling fruit and banana leaf baskets and looked out at a beach we still couldn’t believe was right in front of us.
We tried our luck with some Vanuatu cuisine, prepared by a local lady at one of the markets. I ended up paying $2.50 for a plate of food I could barely dent – it was that big! And it was so utterly delicious. It was made with beef, little fish, beans, spices and green things on rice. I loved it! Even the little fish. I also tried Sagico, a pineapple flavoured drink that was really nice.
After that we made our way back to the Wild Pig for some vodka and a game of pool. I retired early feeling overwhelmed and needing time to myself, the lack of sleep might also contribute to that feeling.
And so now it’s the second day. I’ve eaten lots and lots of different types of bananas, and Hugh, Emma and I just broke into a coconut. It’s so nice!!! I also got my hair braided (check it out!!!) It’s so cool, I’m gonna keep it this way!
Well… maybe I’ll post again soon but my brain really isn’t with it at the mo, Miss you all already! Enjoying the super cheap prices, I got a snorkel set for $8.00, and I think I’m finally settling in. Love you all to death!!! And I’ve got postcards I’ll send tomorrow.

Jess (22nd July)

A Fond Farewell

Well, it's now less than one week until I head off... and the nerves are setting in almost as vigorously the malaria tablets in my gut! And, thanks to Sarah, we had a party to celebrate my leaving. As one of my friends put it, www.jessisleavingthecountry.yay

On Friday I not only had my first malaria tablet, which resulted in dizziness, headaches, cramps (in my neck of all places), a rash on my face and general pain, I also had my last shift at Big W (thank the lord!) and a little 'surprise' party that I knew all about. In fact, Sarah locked me in my bedroom when I got home from work to keep it a surprise for as long as possible.
And she did a fantastic job, along with the help of some of my friends... You can see below some of her great helpers.


Master Chefs: Mel, Tom and Sarah


Master Mischief: Alley


Even Jack (our little kitten) helped out

Not only did Sarah plan all the decorations but she also cooked a great cake (twice), savory and sweet fondu and several different types of sushi. These were all dishes that Sarah and I had made with our friends on different occassions. Careful thought was put into everything... although maybe not of the photos they had of me on display :0)


While the first cake exploded... the second one was quite delicious, and shaped like a deserted island. It was memorable :0)


Sarah, Alley, Tom and Beth also put a lot of hard work into making a goodbye banner for me, their individual art works were greatly appreciated :0)

Apart from general eating, drinking and being merry we entertained ourselves with... ahem... civilized conversation, cluedo, buzz (a gameshow for playstation) and a rather backbiting game of munchkins. Sarah also asked people to bring an item that reminded them of me. Thankfully, most people didn't get the message. Shirley brought salsa because I'm "spicy and exotic", Paul brought beer because I "have a good head on my shoulders", Jill brought a skewer for my "sharp wit", Tom produced a book from one of my favourite authors, Sarah brought a pretzel which warrants an explanation, as does the reason James played the 1812 overture.

Firstly the pretzel. Everyone knows it's not illegal to send a pretzel through the post and, being a twelve year old girl with nothing better to do, I decided I would send a pretzel to my good friend Amy in Canberra. Well, not being completely stupid, I didn't put a return address on the envelope, however Amy did pass on to me a rather interesting letter from Australia Post. It seems the pretzel broke their sorting machine, slowing down post for days. Because it wasn't illegal there was nothing Australia Post could do... but change every single sorting machine in Australia to accommodate for a pretzel. :0) I've certainly made my contribution to the betterment of the human race :0)

As for the 1812 overture, it had something to do with my driving and a Simpsons episode... I won't tell you the story (if you haven't already made the connection), but I'm sure James would love to tell you all about it.


A fine example of civilized conversation


The best entertainment of the night was certainly seeing everyone try to cram around the two tiny fondu pots. Truly unforgettable.

Well, it was a fantastic night, organised by fantastic people. And I'd better end it here, because I've been told my blogs are really, REALLY long! Not that I like to waffle... :0) I don't know when my next blog will be, if I get a chance before I go, or maybe if I can update it while I'm over in Vanuatu. Whatever will be will be, but it sure has been fun!

And Counting...

Well, as most of you know it is now only a couple of weeks until I head off! Deep breath in! And, thankfully to my jumping nerves, the GAP coordinators have been staying in touch about what to expect and what to bring. So, I thought it was about time for an update.

First the boring stuff, and then I'll get into the pictures and juicy details!

When we arrive in Port Villa, having flown with Vanuatu Air, we'll be met by Charlie Tari (see below picture), a teacher at a school in Onesua. He'll take us to the Lucon Guest House in Villa where we'll meet Amanda Baereleo, who is the local GAP reprsenetitive (her photo's also below). We'll stay in Villa a couple of days organising travel and getting used to a different environment.


Charlie Tari


Amanda Baereleo

Next we'll be off to Nguna Island (North of Eftae) where we'll get out first taste of 'Village Life' through the experience of living with host families. It's here that we'll also do some courses on Bislama and the cultural way of life. About the 29th/30th of July Bec and I will head back to Pt Villa and then on to Paama using a Vanair Twin Otter Aircraft (see below).


Vanair Twin Otter Aircraft

When Bec and I arrive at Tavi Airfield we'll be met by someone from the school, possibly Molly Avok the Principle of Vaum Junior Secondary School (see her picture below). There are no trucks or cars or anything like that in Paama, so we'll be walking 40min either across hills or along the beach to get to Liro. Hopefully there'll be someone to give us a hand with our luggage :0). I know I've got plenty to go round (I went a little mad with stationary).


Molly Avak


Our Kastom House

Then it's on to the schools. We'll sort out with Molly which classes we'll be taking, and whether or not we'll be teaching at the local Primary School as well (I'd love to do this!) When we get to Paama it will be towards the end of their term 2 mid term break, so we'll be going straight into teaching without much time for orientation. I hope this works out okay... :-/ I've also been told that both the secondary and primary school are delighted to accept gifts of stationary, books and sporting equipment... hopefully that doesn't mean I'll use it as an excuse to go and buy more.

I also received feedback from two of the previous Gappers, Bradley and Christopher, who've enlightened me a little more as to what conditions are like on the island. There is actually electricity available from or near my accommodation, and even if it is for only 3 hours a night, it's better than nothing. I'll be teaching about 10 lessons a week with classes of approximately 20 students aged 12-15. I've been told to watch out for the roosters crowing at 4am, but that I'll eventuallly get used to it. I've also been told that travel can be rather hard as once you get on to Paama island, it's rather difficult to get off... Despite this, there is plenty of opportunity for travel not only during the school holidays, but during sports carnivals and public holidays. I'm really looking forward to seeing just how much I can explore while I'm over there. I was also warned about boredom, but after Big W I don't think that will be a huge issue for me.

There is food readily available, I don't think I'll come back half my size, but they do suggest that I bring tinned tomatoes, pasta, tinned powdered milk and lots and lots of spices and gravox. I can understand this having tasted a bit of South Pacific Cuisine myself. With a little gas stove, access to a phone, and my own living room and bedroom (shared with Bec of course) this placement is beginning to sound as good as home. Still, while there are a few phones on the island please don't get excited, the lack of electricity makes communication rather hard - I'll still be sending snail mail :0) Overall, these few extra things I've learned have propelled my excitement and nervousness over the steadily approaching departure date. It sure will be an experience I'll never forget!